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Choosing a new firearm can be a daunting task these days.
There are many good brands of firearms to choose from, but
sorting through all the marketing hype and technical
specifications can leave you scratching your head.
Here are some things to consider when you are shopping for a
new firearm that will assist you in making a good choice and
keep you in control of the buying process.
Price and mission
The first basic question is: What will your budget allow?
While price shouldn’t be the only consideration, one has to
be realistic about finances.
The next question is of primary importance: What is the
intended mission you have in mind for this handgun? Think of
handguns like golf clubs. You can try to work with one club,
but you are better off with a well-thought-out selection.
Patrol, SWAT, detective, undercover agent — all will have
needs unique to their mission.
Handgun types fall into these general categories: duty
weapon, reduced-size duty weapon, off-duty weapon, backup
gun, hideout gun. Taking a realistic look at your mission
will help you determine what features you desire. It will
determine size and weight to some degrees, as well as other
features such as round count, light rails and so on.
For general patrol/SWAT missions that are open carry, and
for most off-duty concealed carry, full size guns offer the
best performance in terms of weight, size, capacity, sight
radius and controllability. Slightly reduced size and weight
might be just the ticket for detectives or concealed carry.
For backup guns and hideout guns, concealability will
dominate the selection process. If the gun is too big or
heavy, you may end up leaving it at home. If it is low
quality, it may not last long or malfunction at a critical
moment. The key to these weapons is to use the word
“practical” when you look at them. Will you be most likely
to have it with you all the time because it is convenient to
carry? Again, price is a consideration, but
don’t
sacrifice performance or durability in the name of paying
less.
Remember though, durability standards are not the same for
small, very light guns when compared with full-size pieces
made to shoot a lot of rounds. Make sure it goes “bang”
every time, it is safe, and you will carry it all the time.
Mode of carry
How will you carry the firearm? Will it be in a duty
holster? Concealed carry? Fanny pack? Undercover? Hideout
position or backup gun?
Think of climate or mission considerations and what type of
clothing will fit with the mode of carry. Hot summers may
preclude wearing a jacket to avoid standing out as a gun
carrier. Here a slimmer/smaller gun can be worn in a higher
ride or inside the pants holster with a squared bottomed
shirt hanging over it.
If you like to carry a backup gun in a coat or pants pocket,
a hammerless revolver such as the Smith &Wesson Scandium
J-Frame weighs only 11 ounces while allowing you to fire
from the pocket without jamming. A North American Arms,
five-shot, .22 Magnum, Black Widow revolver weights about 9
ounces and hides effortlessly in an ankle rig, pocket or
deep-cover position.
Size, weight and capacity
Too many people play follow-the-leader rather than make an
educated choice. We are all born with different hand sizes.
Don’t let capacity become the driving force in your
selection. Pointability, shootability, controllability and
manipulation of the trigger are far more important than mere
capacity.
One of the first things to do, after determining the firearm
is in a safe condition, is to grip the firearm and see
whether the middle of the pad of the trigger finger rests
easily against the trigger when you finger is relaxed. If
you have to stretch your finger to get the middle of the pad
on the trigger it is most likely too big for you. Now try
this same test while wearing any gloves you would wear for
duty or off-duty wear. This can be a deal-breaker.
Shooters with smaller hands almost always benefit from a
narrower frame size that allows a stronger grip and gives a
better reach to the trigger. I would gladly give up a few
rounds of capacity in order to increase controllability and
speed. The classic Colt 1911 pattern, carrying 8+1, has
served many a cop well for many years and is still one of my
favorite firearms. The Springfield XD in .45 ACP adds
several more rounds to this yet has a smaller grip than many
other high-capacity firearms.
Please note that smaller guns do not necessarily have
smaller frame circumferences. As an example, going from a
Glock 22 to a Glock 23 will not reduce the reach to the
trigger. For a shooter with small hands, you will need to
find a gun with a shorter reach from the tang to the
trigger.
Ergonomics
This encompasses the individual preference of the shooter
and comprises conscious and subconscious choices.
How well does the gun point for you? When you bring it to
eye level, are the sights falling into line with your line
of sight? Some guns allow you to feel like you have built-in
radar. Grip angle and shape, as well as thickness of the
grip, will factor into this equation. Certain guns just
point better for you, and you know that your sights will be
aligned naturally for you. My advice is that if it is
otherwise a high quality weapon, has sufficient round count,
good sights and trigger then buy the one that points the
best. Only you can determine this.
Trigger system
This is a crucial part of shooting well. A heavy trigger
pull, too long of a reach or a complex trigger manipulation
does nothing to assist you in getting good hits in a timely
fashion.
The single-action trigger, a la the Colt 1911 Government
Model, remains the No. 1 trigger in the world for
high-performance shooting, and for good reason. It is an
extremely viable trigger system for law enforcement and
lends itself well to large and small hands when combined
with a 1911-style handgun.
If you need to shoot precisely at high speed, make precision
shots on a suicide bomber from a safe distance or take a
longer shot, this style of trigger makes it far easier to do
so. As a bonus, the manipulation of the thumb safety and
trigger is almost identical to the M-4 Carbine, making
weapons training that much simpler.
That being said, the striker-fired system is a close second
to the single-action trigger and, in some ways, superior for
certain modes of carry. Now that the Glock patent has
expired, we are seeing a host of weapons from other
manufacturers with this style of trigger. Springfield, S&W,
Ruger, Taurus — all have firearms with similar trigger
systems. I think this system will become the dominant system
for law enforcement in the future.
Still, many prefer the double-action/single-action trigger
system. Sig Sauer makes a very nice double-action trigger
that is even better with competent gunsmithing. It is also
hard to beat a small or midsize revolver for certain
applications.
Controllability
Full-size handguns provide a full-gripping platform for both
hands. They generally have barrels between four and five
inches long. Their size allows them to carry more rounds as
well. The slight increase in barrel length does provide a
bit more sight radius and bullet velocity and lends itself
well to a weapon-mounted light. Being a little heavier, they
tend to be a bit more controllable over a lighter, shorter
platform.
For off-duty or concealed carry, many prefer a slightly
downsized version of their duty weapon for better
concealability and lesser weight. This lends itself to fanny
pack carry as well. You do give up some control and
capacity, but the trade-off is something you will have to
judge for yourself. I generally don’t like carrying fewer
than nine rounds in my primary gun if I can avoid it. Backup
or hideout guns are a different story. Capacity is less of
an issue than concealability and weight.
Weight
Weight can be a mixed blessing. A lighter gun is good up to
a point. Lighter, polymer-framed guns can be more difficult
to control under rapid fire compared with steel framed guns
when shooting some of the hotter duty loads. I see many
people having problems with flinch when shooting a lighter
gun, especially if they shoot only a few times a year. Here
a full-size or steel-frame gun might be a much better
choice. Examples here would include the model 1911-style
gun, which is still the No. 1 selling handgun in the world
today.
Caliber
We can have endless debate about stopping power of the
various calibers, and it is endless fun. Far more important
is how well you can shoot the gun in the size and weight you
will carry. For duty weapons, .40-caliber S&W and .45 ACP
seem to be the favorites, with a smattering of 9mm or .357
Sig. If you flinch quite a bit or shoot poorly with the
weapon, your confidence will suffer. Consider going to a
caliber that allows you to shoot well and still have a
viable caliber. For smaller weapons, backup or hideout guns,
we have 9mm, .380 or .38 +P, .357 Magnum or even .22 Magnum.
Reliability
It has to go bang every time you need it to go bang. My
standard test for a carry firearm is 500 rounds, without a
malfunction, with the ammo I am going to carry on the
street. Some of the smaller automatics with shorter slides
may not cycle as reliably with a certain round as another
gun with a slightly longer slide. It should feed flawlessly
with the rounds you intend to carry.
Durability
This is a big one for me. I shoot 40,000 to 50,000 rounds a
year on average with my primary high capacity 2011 from STI.
I have, conservatively, more than 200,000 rounds fired on
one of them, using the original frame, and it is still in
great shape.
Most guns are rated to a service life of 10,000 to 20,000
rounds, even though they routinely shoot more than that.
Even if you don’t shoot a lot, it gives you peace of mind to
know your gun won’t break when you need it most.
Don’t expect a small, light hideout or backup gun to have
the same durability of the full size guns. They have a
different mission and generally will be carried a lot and
shot enough to maintain a strong sense of competence with
it. Undercover cops need something they can hide well, and
they may need to compromise a bit on size and durability to
have something that they feel they can use. Just make sure
it goes bang every time.
Shootability
This is a subjective topic and is a bit different than
controllability. How well can you shoot the gun? You will be
looking at what kind of sights are on the gun and how well
you can see them, the weight, reach and length of the
trigger pull, muzzle recovery after recoil, weight of the
gun and type of load you will be shooting.
If you are shooting a hot round in a light gun and find
yourself pushing shots around a lot because you are
flinching all the time, then it is too much for you. Many
times a bit heavier gun will allow you to have far more
control than a lighter gun. My advice is to go to a local
gun range and rent one to shoot or find a buddy that has one
and shoot it.
Serviceability
How easy is it to take down and clean the gun? How about
getting aftermarket parts like good sights and a better
trigger job? If the gun goes down, what is the warranty
service like? Does the manufacturer have a reputation for
quality and timely repair service? Factory reps that are
accessible go a long way toward making a gun more attractive
to purchase. Never
buy a gun that you can’t service easily.
I have tried to cover the most important points in selecting
a gun that is right for you. Following these guidelines will
help find one that fits your mission and your price range.
Conceptual Basis
The paradox of
the concealed personal defense weapon is that it is
something you hope you will never have to use for its
intended purpose, but with which you must achieve a level of
mastery and familiarity comparable to the other tools you
use to survive and get through your day. You wouldn't drive
to work in a car that you didn't know how to operate. You
wouldn't wear a coat that was three sizes too small or use a
carpenter's saw to slice up a pot roast. No, you use the
tools appropriate to the job and you learn how to work with
them competently. The same holds true with a self defense
pistol. You should know how to operate it and have the level
of skill necessary to use it safely and effectively. It
should fit your hand and your lifestyle because you will be
spending a lot of time with it. It should be comfortable to
shoot and hopefully to carry, although when asked if a carry
gun should be comfortable to wear, master trainer Clint
Smith said, "Your carry gun should be comforting, not
comfortable." Your pistol should be powerful enough
to do the job and accurate enough to hit the target. It
should be completely reliable, and its operation should be
as familiar to you as riding a bicycle or brushing your
teeth. You must also have a clear understanding of the legal
issues surrounding the use of deadly force -- when you can
and when you can't -- and the methods and techniques of
using a gun in a self defense situation. Sounds like a lot?
You're right; it is, and if you are unwilling to master the
skills and concepts of lethal force, do yourself a favor and
just don't carry a gun.
Skill
and Familiarity
Handguns are
not easy to shoot well. The ability to consistently put
bullets into a target quickly and in the places which will
stop an attacker is a skill that requires a lot of practice.
Too many people have the notion that a pistol is a kind of
magical talisman and the user need only take it out and wave
it around and the problem will magically disappear. Nothing
could be further from the truth. A gun brandished at the
wrong time and without the fighting skills necessary to
employ it effectively will make a whole bunch of new
problems, including getting you killed or arrested and
charged with some very serious crimes. Hence, making the
decision to carry a gun should be made only with the
commitment to practice and learn. This may take the shape of
attending classes or participating in a practical shooting
sport like IDPA. We
strongly recommend that you attend training classes and
participate in IDPA if you carry a concealed weapon. At the
very least, a regular practice schedule should be part of
the package. This means that you will be spending a lot of
time with your pistol. The gun should be comfortable in your
hand, have manageable recoil, and be sturdy enough to stand
up to heavy use in practice sessions, matches, and classes.
The gun should also have reasonable accuracy. You should be
able to consistently put all of your shots in an area the
size of a saucer at ten yards quickly.
Types and
Sizes: Pros and Cons
Pocket Guns
When many folks
think of a concealed carry gun, they think of little-bitty
pocket pistols that will easily disappear into a pocket or
purse. While these may be light and convenient, that's all
they are. Aside from that, they're pretty useless. They lack
the power to put down a determined attacker and they lack
the accuracy to hit anything at more than spitting distance.
But even more importantly, most little guns are unpleasant
to shoot. Being very light and having small handles, their
muzzle flip is very bad. After a few rounds your hand may
begin to hurt. Shoot a match or take a class at Gunsite with
one of these pocket guns? Forget it. If you don't learn to
use it, how much good is it going to do you when the chips
are down? In this group, I would include the small Berettas,
Airweight snubnose revolvers, Seecamp .32's and derringers.
There may be a place for these pistols, but they all suffer
from serious inadequacies. (I am particularly fond of the
Airweight snubnose .38 Special revolver, but it is an
unpleasant gun to fire.)
Medium
Frame Revolvers
Even though
they have been around for 165 years, revolvers remain an
excellent solution. These pistols are simple to use and
accurate. They can handle hot loads and larger bullets
making them effective personal defense weapons. Examples of
this class of pistol are the Ruger GP Series and the S&W
Model 66. The ideal revolver would have a 3" to 4" barrel, a
six-round cylinder, and a grip that fills your hand. The
biggest drawback of these pistols is the speed of reloading,
but with practice, a revolver can be reloaded as quickly as
an autoloader.
Medium
Frame Auto Pistols
The
overwhelming majority of professional trainers, operators,
law enforcement and military people prefer medium to large
framed autoloading pistols. These pistols have the best
combination of speed, firepower, accuracy, and power. These
pistols will generally load 8-10 rounds in their magazines
(or more if you can find the magazines), have full-length
grips, and 3.5" or longer barrels. These guns tend to have
adequate accuracy and power, and large enough grips to be
comfortable. Examples of this type of pistol would be the
Glock 17, 19, 21 and 22, the S&W 39xx, 59xx, and 69xx
series, the SIG 22x series, the H&K USP and P7, the Kimber
ProCarry and Compact, the Springfield Champion,
Para-Ordnance P12, and many others.
Large
Frame Pistols and Revolvers
I like big
pistols. They shoot more accurately, absorb more recoil, and
develop greater muzzle velocity due to their longer barrels.
I would include in this group the Beretta 92, the Colt
Government Model M1911 (and clones), The N Frame S&W
revolvers, Colt Python, Anaconda and their copies.
Characteristically, these guns have 5" barrels and weigh 36
oz. or more. The biggest drawback of these pistols is their
weight. They get heavy and small framed people may have
difficulty concealing them.
Autoloader Action Types
There are four
types of actions around which semi-auto pistols are built.
It's important to understand the differences:
Single Action -
M1911 Colt .45 ACP and Browning Hi-Power 9mm
This is the
oldest autoloader design still in service, designed by John
Browning (with the help of the Army Ordnance Board) during
the period between 1905 and 1911. The hammer must be cocked,
generally by racking the slide, for the gun to fire. This
design in .45 ACP, .40 S&W and .38 Super is favored by
competitive shooters, FBI SWAT, FBI Hostage Rescue Team, and
many special forces units because it has the best trigger,
outstanding accuracy and is very fast. For the gun to be
carried in a state of readiness, the hammer must be cocked
and the manual safety applied, "cocked and locked" (see
"The Conditions
of Readiness").
This looks scary and is not recommended for novices or those
suffering from attention deficit disorder.
Double
Action/Single Action - Beretta 92F (Armed Forces M9), most
Smith & Wesson autos, SIG, Walther, and some Rugers.
This has been
the standard design for most autos for the last 50 years.
These pistols are cocked by the first trigger pull, but
subsequent shots are cocked by the action of the slide
cycling back. Consequently, the first trigger pull is long
and harder (Double Action) since it is also cocking the
hammer. Subsequent trigger pulls are easy (Single Action)
since the hammer is already cocked. These guns have an
external safety lever which puts the gun on safe and
de-cocks the hammer. This is generally thought to be the
safest design since the long, heavy first trigger pull and
the external safety which blocks the firing pin tend to
prevent the gun from going off by accident. The criticism of
this design is that it forces the shooter to learn two
different trigger pulls and accuracy often suffers on the
first double action shot. Most accidental discharges with
these sorts of pistols are the result of the shooter
forgetting to de-cock the hammer.
Double
Action/Single Action with De-Cocker Only - Ruger and some
SIG pistols
This is a
variant of the DA/SA which is used by Ruger and some SIG
pistols. It functions just like a DA/SA except the "safety"
lever is not a safety. It only de-cocks the hammer, but the
gun will still fire when the de-cocker is applied and the
trigger is pulled. I personally do not like this design
since the de-cocker looks just like a safety lever but does
not put the gun on safe.
Double Action Only - Glock,
Smith & Wesson Sigma and M99, some Berettas, some Rugers,
Kahr, Kel-Tec, Walther P99.
This is the
newest action design made popular by Glock. With these
pistols every trigger pull is the same and they have no
external safety or decocking levers. The hammers are not
cocked by the cycling of the slide (except for the Glocks
which are pre-cocked by the slide cycle, and are not true
double action). DAO pistols depend on the long double action
trigger pull to prevent accidental discharges. In a sense
these are autoloaders which fire like revolvers. Triggers
vary from model to model. Some, like the Glocks, have very
light triggers. Other DAO triggers can be quite heavy and
long, and can be very unpleasant to shoot. The advantage of
this action is its simplicity and the fact that every
trigger pull is the same.
Calibers and Power
Here we get
into mysticism and voodoo, and I will just give you my
personal opinion and you can take it for what it's worth. I
like the .45 ACP and the .357 Magnum the best. Just under
them in effectiveness are the .40 S&W, the .44 Special and
the 9mm. Below them are the .38 Special and the .380 ACP.
There are other cartridges, but these are the most common
for personal defense weapons and the ammunition is readily
available.
I wouldn't be
comfortable with anything smaller than a .380 (actually, I
wouldn’t be comfortable with anything smaller than a .45
ACP, but that’s a different argument). My personal favorite
handgun cartridge is the .45 ACP because of its power and
accuracy, but smaller cartridges will do the job if you do
your part. Like the selection of the gun, the selection of a
cartridge should be based on your ability to shoot it well.
A good hit with a .380 is better than a miss with a .45. So,
as a general rule, your self defense cartridge should be the
largest and most powerful load that you shoot well.
The
Selection Process
Don't be in a
rush to buy the first gun you see. Give it a lot of thought.
Ideally, shoot as many pistols as you can before you make a
decision. Most gun ranges have pistols you can rent to see
how they feel. If you have friends who own pistols, go
shooting with them. Most will be happy to let you shoot
their guns and share with you their experiences with them.
Be careful
about the advice of clerks at gun stores; some are very
knowledgeable but many others are total idiots. Just because
someone works at a gun store doesn't necessarily mean that
he or she is an expert on personal defense pistols.
I would also
maintain a healthy degree of skepticism toward articles in
popular gun magazines. They don’t make money by trashing the
offerings of their advertisers.
Consider how
you dress and your lifestyle. How will you carry the pistol?
Can you adjust your wardrobe to accommodate your pistol?
Particular body shapes may present special problems. Your
physical strength and conditioning may also be a factor,
i.e., powerful auto pistols tend to function better for
people with strong arms and hands. How much time do you have
to devote to practice? As a rule of thumb, autos require
more training than revolvers, so don't pick a single-action
.45 auto if you're not willing to learn to use it.
As important as
any other single factor is the size and geometry of your
hand. Hand size varies greatly between people and it is very
important to handle a gun and note carefully the comfort of
the grip and the position of the controls on the pistol. If
you can't easily manipulate every control on the gun with
either hand, then find a different gun. People with short
thumbs may have trouble with the safety of an M1911. People
with short palms may have difficulty with the thick handles
of the double-stack 9mm and .40 pistols. People with meaty
hands may be "bitten" by the slide of a small auto when it
cycles.
Does the gun
feel good in your hand? Is the trigger smooth or is it rough
and heavy? Is the frame fairly narrow so that it will
conceal well? Does the gun have the right balance of weight
and size? (Remember, bigger is better for shooting and
power, but can you carry it for 8 hours if you have to?)
You will notice
that I have said nothing about price. I really hate to hear
people making a decision on a handgun based on price. No one
wants to pay more than we have to or what is fair, but price
should be the last consideration. You won’t remember a
hundred or so dollars extra you paid for the right pistol,
but you will remember the ill-fitting bargain pistol that
doesn’t shoot right or feel good.
To summarize,
hold it, feel it, fire it if you can, and recognize that
you're going to spend a lot of time with the pistol.
Remember also, that it may be called upon someday to defend
your life. No, it isn't easy, and you may end up buying two
or three pistols before you find the one with just the right
balance of weight, power and comfort.
Holsters
The holster and
the gun are two components of one system. Don't cut corners
on a holster. A good holster makes the carry much more
comfortable and safer. A good holster will allow you to
carry a heavier gun with less discomfort and greater
concealment. A fine holster will be thin yet strong. It will
shield the trigger but not grab it. The choices in holsters
can be bewildering, but if you let your common sense, your
mode of dress, and logic guide you, the problem simplifies.
The best draw is from a belt holster on the strong side. The
strong side belt holster provides for a faster draw, better
retention, and fewer problems than other styles of holsters.
When you select your gun, you will need a holster that works
with it so it is important to know if the right holster is
available for the gun you intend to carry.
Summary
of Selection Criteria
-
Your personal
defense weapon should be as large and as powerful as you
can shoot accurately and carry with a reasonable degree
of comfort and concealment.
-
Your personal
defense weapon should fit your hand perfectly.
-
You should be
able to manipulate the controls of your weapon with
either hand alone.
-
Your personal
defense weapon should be of sturdy construction and be
able to withstand heavy use and rough handling.
-
Your personal
defense weapon should be accurate enough to consistently
hit a target the size of a saucer at 10 yards quickly.
-
Select a
caliber for which ammunition is readily available.
-
A good
quality holster must be available for the model of
pistol you intend to carry.
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